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14.12.04Pizza ReviewUntil tommorow, I'm living in a foodless wasteland. For the past few days I've been eating at any stooled or even seatless foodery that would have me. I'd been wondering for a while whether Massimo's, the successor to Pizza (Impotent) Colore, at Nassau and Tulane, was any good. (Also, I have boundless admiration for Slice, & want to do the world of pizzaphiles some good.) Is there any difference? The verdict on a plain pie, straight from the oven (gas, it seems).
There is a difference. I reckon it's slightly worse. I liked the generous spread of slightly sour, pleasantly tomato-acidic sauce. But the cheese was bland (a bit saltier, lads) & too greasy as well (& at the same time overpowered by the sauce), & this makes for a soggy-topped slice. The crust was the weakest component of the pie (& this is always the big liability, isn't it?). Too thick, too hard, too Ellio's. There is a fine layer of squishy dough near the surface, & I wonder what would happen if the crust (assume better ingredients, too) were half as thick & cooked for a quarter as long, say, in an oven (brick? with coals?) three times hotter. Now we are bloody talking, aren't we? |
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